Natural Fibres ; Backbone of Indian Textile Industry

 By Yoshika Sharma



Did you know in 1st century CE Roman Noble women were been given india cotton to wear and for this the Roman Empire used to spend 2 crore gold coin. 

Natural fibers are the fibres that come from natural sources like plants and anmals . India was always home natural fibers . In about  5000 BCE farmers in the Indus valley civilization used to cultivated cotton which was India' s first natural fibre , they were also the first ones who started the spinning and weaving of cotton . The vedas include unlimited texts regarding spinning , weaving and dress designing .

In Rigveda male weaver were termed as ''vaya'' and female weaver were termed as ''vayatri'' . Threads , shuttle , loom, were one of the important object in this industry.

In 327 BCE when Alexander attacked India , the soldiers of his army started to like india cotton wear instead of their wool uniform , as cotton was breathable, allowed coolig and drying airflow , and made it a summer staple. other than cotton , India is a home to many  other natural fibers like jute , coir etc . 

Coir ; coir is made from extracting the action hair of coconut , it was used to made ropes and threads . In chola empire coir was used in ship building which made this fibre more prominent . 

In 16th century during Akbar's regin . Akbar considering the warm climate of india introduced cotton to the nobility instead of silk . Due to the boost in textile industry the Mughal era was termed as the golden period for the indian textile industry. 

Like cotton jute is also a natural fibre , which was usedby the Indus valley civilization from 3rd millennium BCE for manufacturing of clothes . Jute is most prominently grown in West Bengal and Assam . Rope , twine  , Mat , and sack are some of the  articles made from jute .

During the 17th century the Dutch and french merchants started the jute trade from Bengal to Europe . In the British colonial rule the Britishers established jute factory in eastern India and cotton factory in western India . The Britishers started the first jute mill in the 1855 kolkata from which Burlap ( a special white jute cloth) got its place in the iternationa market . During the 1880 the manufacturing rate of jute in India was 50%  of the world jute production.

During early 18th century a fibres made century a fibre made from cotton named Calico ( a cheap fabric rom Calicut ) was gaining market iin Britain . Seeing the increasing demand for Calico , Britain passed  a Calico law 1700 to stop the import of Calico from India , and England started the export its synthetic fibres  to India  which made Indian weavers unemployed and made Indian textile industry flattered for years , there was no coming  back  of the indian natural fibres . But then in 1918 at the sabarmati ashram in Gujrat , Khadi cloth was weaved and thus this gain marked the begining of start of new era . Seeing this boost , Mahatma Gandhi initiated the Khadi movement in which synthetic fibres from Britishers were boycotted and people were encouraged to use Desi goods and khadi and other natural fibres . 

Natural fibres are considered the backbone of Indian textile industry which is projected to reach $195 billion by 2025

References

Ahmed, F., & Mondal, M. I. H. (2021). Introduction to natural fibres and textiles. In Fundamentals of natural fibres and textiles (pp. 1-32). Woodhead Publishing.

Kumar, P. S., & Suganya, S. (2017). Introduction to sustainable fibres and textiles. In Sustainable fibres and textiles (pp. 1-18). Woodhead Publishing.

Olhan, S., Khatkar, V., & Behera, B. K. (2021). Textile-based natural fibre-reinforced polymeric composites in automotive lightweighting. Journal of Materials Science, 1-44.

Thomas, S., Paul, S. A., Pothan, L. A., & Deepa, B. (2011). Natural fibres: structure, properties and applications. Cellulose Fibers: Bio-and Nano-Polymer Composites: Green Chemistry and Technology, 3-42.